Ed: This
is the second time I've had to write this post... never rely on Apps
on your phone is the moral of the story! Anyway, lets see if I can
remember what a wrote last time!
What
a couple of weeks. I'm currently enjoying a day off in Christchurch
having been working the last week on various stories. Hopefully I
will get around to writing that up in a later post, but don't hold
your hopes up!
It's
nine years since I last visited here with Darren and the place is now
so very different.
We
took in all the sites, like good tourists. Climbed the cathedral
spire to take in the view of the square, had coffee in one of the
little parades of shops (just to along from where I am now in fact)
and took a trip on the vintage trams. I remember thinking to myself
what a quaint attempt at a european city, it felt really quite
familiar. The architecture helped, but also the attitudes of the
people we met.
There
is very little to remind you of that now, although I wonder if there
is a comparison to be drawn to the post blitz cities of the UK. Now
the Cathedral stands with a gaping hole where the entrance once was
and the spire is nowhere to be seen. As you look around there are
empty spaces marking out the sites of buildings, most turned over to
car parks, just left as they are or in some cases pieces of art have
been places on them. Some buildings are still standing and very
eery they look too. On my first walk around earlier this week it
looked like they were all fine. The closer you get you soon realise
they are boarded up or behind harris fencing. The signs are still on
them and in some cases you can still see shelves... but stock has now
been taken away.
Some
buildings still have the marks sprayed on them by the search and
rescue teams as they carefully checked through them, right by my
hotel an access ramp to an underground car park states that they have
been unable to check inside as its flooded, but cars are still there.
The job of clearing it out will come soon as it and all the other
towers left standing are will soon be demolished.
Interestingly
it seems that new building were affected almost as much as older
ones. Anything built of wood coped well, but stone building crumbled
and the newer tall building didn't cope well. One of the lessons
learnt was that due to the action of the quake anything over 7
stories was badly damaged although the floors below that often
survided. A ripple up the buildings got worse the higher it went!
New buildings are now mainly going to be kept below that height.
Darren
and I visited the shiny new art gallery back in 2005 and it survived
the quake well. None of the pains of glass in its stunning “wave”
broke. Even though it is currently closed while some changes are
made to it's structure so that it can cope with another one.
That
all sounds very negative, but it is only three years since the
disaster and there are signs that a new Christchurch is beginning to
appear. I'm in a cafe at the Cathedral Junction right by my hotel.
This is a newer complex and just about survived. It did need to have
a complete refit internally but the structure was sound. Chatting to
the manager of my hotel he told me (as I was checking out) that the
seventh floor was a complete mess, the fact that I stayed on the
sixth floor made me glad he didn't tell me till then! Similar and
newer building are quickly being reopened or built all over the city.
Shipping containers have been used in other areas to allow shops
and businesses to return, but all have a temporary feel to them.
The proper job of rebuilding is going to take much longer and already
involves some wrangling.
The
stricken St Peters Cathedral is a case in point. I had the privilege
of meeting with the Right Rev'd Victoria Matthews, Bishop of
Christchurch. She took me on a tour of her Transitional Cathedral,
an amazing building constructed of cardboard. It's on the site of an
old parish church that had to be demolished following the earthquake
and for the next ten years will be home to the cathedral.
In
the mean time the future of the old building is up for debate.
Bishop Victoria told me how much of a challenge the old building had
been to use as a space for worship and the others things that happen
in a Cathedral. The church would like to build a new cathedral on
the plot. Something that will serve them in future years, and be
safe and earthquake ready.
The
heritage lobby has a very different opinion. Over the week I heard
how they feel the old city and its listed buildings are being torn
down at an incredible rate and that needs to be stopped. The
cathedral has become a focus for them with court cases now in play to
try and force the diocese to rebuild it as was. It seems that the
people with this opinion are of older generations – one guide
called them “grey beards”. Younger people I've spoken to seem
much more willing to embrace the idea of building a new better city,
after all the idea of the original european settlers was to create a
kind of utopia.
The
battle seems to be proving rather nasty, with some very personal
attacks on the Bishop, suggesting it is her personal idea. One
person even said he didn't like her because she wasn't from here,
originally coming from Canada. The fact that she has lived in
Christchurch for over 20 years seemed to be lost on him. I did
chuckle as the question about what makes someone a proper local seems
to happen everywhere, not just in a typical English village.
Ultimately
the future of the cathedral will be decided in the courts and what
ever happens someone is going to be unhappy!
You can see all my photo's from Christchurch in 2005 and 2014 on my Flickr site.
Labels: New Zealand, World Tour
# posted by
Phil
@
1:01 am